The name wasn’t an exaggeration. As I stood at the edge of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, staring into a wall of tangled vines and towering trees, I finally understood why this ancient rainforest earned its formidable title. My journey to find the mountain gorillas was about to begin—and nothing could have prepared me for what lay ahead.
Dawn at the Ranger Station
The morning air was thick with mist as our group gathered before sunrise. Park rangers checked our gear while our guide, John, a veteran tracker with 15 years of experience, briefed us:
“Today, we search for the Habinyanja family—12 gorillas, including a dominant silverback named Mukiza. The terrain will test you, but the reward is worth every step.”
I tightened my hiking boots, adjusted my backpack, and took a deep breath. This was it.
Into the Green Abyss
Within minutes of entering the forest, civilization faded away. The trail—if you could call it that—was a narrow path of slick mud and gnarled roots. Thick foliage brushed against us as we climbed higher, the humidity clinging to our skin.
John and the trackers moved swiftly, using machetes to clear the densest patches. Every so often, we’d stop as they examined broken branches and fresh dung, tracking the gorillas’ movements.
Two hours in, my legs burned, and my clothes were soaked with sweat. Then—a sound.
The Moment We Found Them
A sharp “snap” of branches. A low, rumbling growl.
John raised his hand in warning. “Slowly… they’re close.”
We crept forward, pushing aside giant ferns—and then, we saw them.
Mukiza, the 400-pound silverback, sat like a king among the undergrowth, his dark, intelligent eyes watching us with mild curiosity. Around him, juveniles swung from vines, mothers nursed their babies, and adolescents wrestled in the dirt.
For a moment, I forgot to breathe.
An Hour in Gorilla Time
We had 60 minutes with them—a privilege that felt both endless and fleeting. At one point, a curious juvenile ambled so close I could see the individual hairs on his back glisten in the filtered sunlight. He stared right at me before casually plucking a leaf and chewing it, utterly unbothered by our presence.
The silverback occasionally grunted to assert his dominance, but mostly, the family ignored us, going about their day as if we were just another part of the forest.
The Hardest Goodbye
When our time was up, John signaled for us to retreat. As we backed away, one of the younger gorillas let out what sounded like a playful “whimper,” as if saying goodbye.
The hike back was silent—no one wanted to break the spell of what we’d just witnessed.
Why This Trek Changed Me
- Respect for Wildlife – Seeing gorillas in their true home, not a zoo, reshaped my understanding of conservation.
- Physical & Mental Challenge – The forest tested my limits, but the reward was beyond words.
- A Memory That Lasts – Months later, I still dream of Mukiza’s gaze and the rustling leaves as his family moved around us.
Would I Do It Again?
Absolutely. But next time, I’d:
✔ Train harder (those hills are no joke!)
✔ Pack lighter (every ounce counts)
✔ Bring my best camera (though no photo does it justice)
For anyone considering gorilla trekking: Do it. The Impenetrable Forest will push you, humble you, and leave you with a story you’ll tell for the rest of your life.